Most
garden design advice begins with a discussion of colour,
texture and form. Colour is arguably the most prominent factor
in a garden design and often the first one considered. Colour
is what most gardeners are drawn to.
We know what we like
when we see it. Good garden design involves knowing how
to combine colours so that the final product will be one
we like. Only practice and experimentation will develop
your eye for colour and allow you to see the differences
between colours, but a good way to start is by studying the
colour wheel used in art.
On the wheel, colours are arranged
by their relationships to each other, in a progression.
Violet-red to Red to Orange-Red to Orange to Yellow-Orange
to Yellow and so on, in the same order as they appear in
the spectrum. Most modern colour wheels only contain 12 colours,
while there are many more subtleties in nature.
THE BASIC COLOUR PALLETTE
The Primary Colours on the wheel are: Red, Yellow & Blue
Blending these 3 colours gives us the rest of the rainbow.
Secondaries and Tertiaries round out the 12 colours shown
on the wheel.
Secondary: Orange, Green & Violet
Tertiaries: Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green & Blue-Violet
COMBINING AND PLAYING WITH COLOURS IN THE GARDEN
Basically, it breaks down to 2 choices:
Harmonious (colours that are
next to one another and share some value) or
Contrasting (colours that don’t)
Harmonious Combinations
Monochromatic
Choosing one hue and using
it in its various shades, tints and tones.
Less is More
Can be a good beginners approach, as it avoids the chaos
of too many colours
Requires an eye that can see the differences within a colour
Also a very sophisticated approach in its subtlety
Texture and repetition become more noticeable and important
Green makes a good transition from one shade to the next
Can also be employed as a
progression, moving from one hue to the next on the wheel,
the next...
Analogous
Working with 2-3 colours that
are adjacent to one another on the wheel (red, orange, yellow)
Makes for an easier, less jarring transition for the eye
Contrasting Combinations
Complementary
Uses two colours opposite each
other on the colour wheel (red/green, orange/blue, yellow/purple.)
No common pigment means maximum contrast.
Can be a bit jarring if there is too much contract used
Try to favor one colour and use the other as an accent or
focal point
Again, use texture and form for variety, rather than too
much colour
You could also work with 3 equidistant colours (Triads) or
One colour and the 2 colours on either side of its complement
(Violet with Yellow-Orange and Yellow-Green) (Split Complements)
Polychromatic
Using every colour
Actually requires as much thought and experimentation as
the other approaches
Can become a riot of colour
Neighbouring plants need to be considered throughout the
garden
THE BASIC COLOUR PALLETTE
The Primary Colours on the wheel are: Red, Yellow & Blue
Blending these 3 colours gives us the rest of the rainbow.
Secondaries and Tertiaries round out the 12 colours shown
on the wheel.
Secondary: Orange, Green & Violet
Tertiaries: Yellow-Orange, Yellow-Green & Blue-Violet
COMBINING AND PLAYING WITH COLOURS IN THE GARDEN
Basically, it breaks down to 2 choices:
Harmonious (colours that are
next to one another and share some value) or
Contrasting (colours that don’t)
Harmonious Combinations
Monochromatic
Choosing one hue and using
it in its various shades, tints and tones.
Less is More
Can be a good beginners approach, as it avoids the chaos
of too many colours
Requires an eye that can see the differences within a colour
Also a very sophisticated approach in its subtlety
Texture and repetition become more noticeable and important
Green makes a good transition from one shade to the next
Can also be employed as a
progression, moving from one hue to the next on the wheel,
the next...
Analogous
Working with 2-3 colours that
are adjacent to one another on the wheel (red, orange, yellow)
Makes for an easier, less jarring transition for the eye
Contrasting Combinations
Complementary
Uses two colours opposite each
other on the colour wheel (red/green, orange/blue, yellow/purple.)
No common pigment means maximum contrast.
Can be a bit jarring if there is too much contract used
Try to favor one colour and use the other as an accent or
focal point
Again, use texture and form for variety, rather than too
much colour
You could also work with 3 equidistant colours (Triads) or
One colour and the 2 colours on either side of its complement
(Violet with Yellow-Orange and Yellow-Green) (Split Complements)
Polychromatic
Using every colour
Actually requires as much thought and experimentation as
the other approaches
Can become a riot of colour
Neighboring plants need to be considered throughout the
garden
The eye is drawn to the lightest
value first.Crucial to consider in monochromatic gardens.
Guide the eye with light values and use darker values as
contrast and focal points. (That’s why using a green
hedge behind a flower border works to draw the eye toward
the darker flowers.
Also using evergreens and structure and bones in the garden.)
To get a strong feel for the values of the colours in your
garden, look at it in B&W.
Temperature: The Degree of Warmth of a colour
You’ve probably heard
colours referred to as either hot or cold. Temperature is
less cut and dry
than the above terms. It tends to be something you sense
more than quantify. Red, Yellow &
Orange are considered warm colours. Green, Blue and Violet
are considered cool.
However, temperature can be altered by blending colours.
Add some red to violet and you get a considerably warmer
colour.
CONDITIONS THAT CAN ALTER colour
Keep in mind that the perception of colour varies from person
to person and can greatly be affected by surroundings.
Lighting: Light changes the saturation of colour. Red turns
dull at twilight while white begins to glow.
Surface Texture: The texture
of a leaf or flower will affect how the light hits it and
therefore how the colour is perceived. The smoother the surface,
the more light is reflected and the more saturated the colour
appears.
Proximity: colours loose their
definition at a distance. A monochromatic garden can turn
into a blur. Conversely, too much contrast close up confuses
the eye and makes for an unsettling garden.
colour Interactions: Just putting
a contrasting colour next to a flower will change the way
we see its colour. Gray can muddy true reds. Violet can become
hotter next to a vivid orange.
Age: colours change as plants
mature. Sometimes the colour will change entirely. This is
not so much a matter of perception, but it does need to
be kept in mind when planing a design.
Season: Nature changes her
pallette as the year progresses: spring pastels, summer
vibrants, fall jewel tones. It’s only fair that the
gardener should have the same prerogative. This is where
choosing plants for a succession of bloom is paramount.
Combining colour well is a matter of trial and error. If
you’d like to experiment on a small scale, you can
start as simply as putting together a bouquet. Containers
are a colourists best friend. You can test combinations in
a pot and even move the pot around your garden to further
explore.